Hydra Mac Inc Model 5 Serial 2575 Service Manual Hydraulic Fluid

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Whether you are a small farmer, or have a large ranchette, you probably own a tractor or some other type of equipment which utilizes a hydraulic cylinder for some function or another.

Most modern tractors, including backhoes and front end loaders, use these simple devices for the power steering and lift systems.

Problems

These same types of hydraulic cylinders are used extensively on many types of combines and cultivation equipment, as well as more and more types of machinery.

Eventually the seals will start to leak oil a little but there comes a time when the amount spent on hydraulic oil makes it imperative to rebuild the cylinder.

This article takes you through the steps needed to break down the cylinder and replace the o-rings and other seals on the piston and gland. Although not a difficult procedure, it is very important to take your time with the process.

Hydraulic System Repairs

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Before You Begin

There are so many different types of hydraulic cylinders manufactured for all kinds of functions and machines that you should try to locate the correct repair or rebuild kit before starting your dis-assembly. The parts numbers are usually stamped into the end cap or on the outside of the cylinder.

If your particular cylinder is a major make, such as a Case, John Deere, or other well-known brand, simply go to the local dealer and buy or order the kit you need.

You may also get a printout of the parts diagram which may prove very helpful in the rebuilding process, or in some cases you may find a print-out online instead.

You may have to order the parts on the internet, but as long as you have the part numbers this should be no problem. It is always best to have the parts when the process begins to ensure the new and old parts are the same size and type.
When the cylinder is used for raising or lowering heavy objects or for other weight-bearing purposes, always brace or otherwise support the weight with jacks or blocks to prevent injury to yourself or the equipment.

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Some of these pieces are quite heavy and unwieldy, so be aware of the danger of crushing fingers or hands during the repairs.

Breaking the Hydraulic Cylinder Down

The hydraulic cylinder being rebuilt in this article is one of a pair used for raising the bucket on the front end loader of a Case 580C backhoe. I have already rebuilt several of the other cylinders on the backhoe part of the machine. Each cylinder, or set of cylinders, has a different gland and seal kit.

I do not have all of the correct wrenches for each gland so I make my own. Eventually I will have a wrench for each cylinder, or so I hope. The glands have four holes used for unscrewing them from the cylinder.

Inc

The tool I constructed here uses two prongs of spring steel cut from a spring tooth out of a peanut combine. Soft steel may work, but not on a large cylinder. Measure the distance between two of the opposite holes and place the two prongs the same distance.

A cutting torch and welder are the best tools a small farm or homeowner’s shop can possess. Blow the holes through, insert the prongs and weld tight. Works well and costs very little, not too pretty though.

For those who lack access to metalworking tools I've provided an ad for a couple of gland removal tools on this page. I personally vouch for their quality and ease of use.

Gland Removal Tools

OTC (1266) Adjustable Gland Nut Wrench

Small Cylinder Gland Remover Tool

CTA Tools 8600 Small Adjustable Gland Nut Wrench

Step-by-Step Instructions for Hydraulic Cylinder Disassembly

  1. Before doing anything, be sure all pressure is released from the cylinder. Loosen or remove the hydraulic lines on each end of the cylinder as this will allow all pressure to escape. You may be able to unscrew the gland without removing either end of the cylinder assembly from its end connections.
  2. In this case, I needed the room, so I pulled the pin from the piston rod end. Using the new tool, the gland is unscrewed from the hydraulic cylinder. In some cases a slight tap or bump with a hammer may be applied to the tool to break the gland loose. Once loosened, the gland should unscrew easily and pull away from the hydraulic cylinder if there is room on the piston rod.
  3. With the gland removed, pull the piston rod from the cylinder. Large hydraulic cylinders may have to be supported to keep them straight while removing the piston rod. A winch is sometimes used for large cylinders but is not required in most cases.
  4. Try to keep the piston rod from falling into the dirt or against other metal objects when it pulls out of the cylinder. Protect all parts, such as the fine threads inside of the cylinder from any damage, this is a very important and potentially costly precaution. Do not hurry!
  5. When the piston rod is free put the rod end back into its pin connection and unscrew the retaining bolt which holds the piston to the rod. In extreme cases, this bolt may have to be heated if a thread locking substance has been used in a prior rebuilding process. Try not to heat the piston any more than necessary and this should work well. Place the parts in order and take a photo or two for later reference if needed.

As always, whenever handling heavy parts or dealing with hydraulic repairs, be very careful to avoid injury, not only yourself, but to the very expensive cylinder and piston assemblies. Always take it slow and careful during the entire hydraulic cylinder rebuild process.

Disassembly of Hydraulic Pistons (Photo References)

Hydra Mac Inc Model 5 Serial 2575 Service Manual Hydraulic Fluid Diagram

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Reassembly and Finishing Up

Most hydraulic cylinder rebuild kits will furnish a diagram for correct installation purposes so look this over well before replacing the o-rings and seals in the gland and piston.

All will be slightly different from each other so you will have to identify each new seal and o-ring. Some of these seals are very thin and may be damaged if not installed evenly.

In some cases, the old seal may be used as an aid to reinstalling the new piece. Be careful to put these in very evenly or they may be damaged in the process.

Examine each o-ring in each groove and remove and install these one at a time to keep from getting confused as to correct placement. Clean each groove and seat carefully before replacing with the new part.
Reverse the process when reassembling the piston to the rod using a thread locking adhesive when replacing the piston rod bolt. Oil all parts well and use a piece of wood on the rod end if needed when tapping the piston back into the cylinder

Do not use a thread locking substance on the gland threads when screwing the gland back into the cylinder. Replace the hydraulic lines and test for leaks around the new seal. Follow the same basic procedure for most cylinder types. Good luck and be careful at all times!

Installing the New Seal Kit (Photo References)

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Frequently Asked Questions

Check out the questions and answers in the comments below for problems you may encounter which haven't been addressed in the above article. Or, feel free to give your own input or suggestions if you've run into any problems or solutions yourself.

Hopefully, your experience will aid others in their own repairs and also help save a few bucks for the working man. Any advice or corrections will be appreciated.

Hydra Mac Inc Model 5 Serial 2575 Service Manual Hydraulic Fluid Problems

Hydra Mac Inc Model 5 Serial 2575 Service Manual Hydraulic Fluid

Tractor and Backhoe Hydraulic Cylinder repair

Hydra Mac Inc Model 5 Serial 2575 Service Manual Hydraulic Fluid System

  • How To Rebuild Or Repair Tractor Backhoe Hydraulic Cylinders
    More info on repairing tractor backhoe hydraulic cylinders. Fully illustrated step-by-step instructions and tips to help you save money and time on repairs.

This article is accurate and true to the best of the author’s knowledge. Content is for informational or entertainment purposes only and does not substitute for personal counsel or professional advice in business, financial, legal, or technical matters.

Hydra Mac Inc Model 5 Serial 2575 Service Manual Hydraulic Fluid Pump

  • It's 580 c case. It is the pressure relief value on the swing boom cylinder wouldn't be a left hand thread. None of the other cylinders are.

  • Can't use heat on pressure relief value. Impact won't touch it. 1150 lbs impact nut won't budge. If i heat i will need a new spring or complete pressure relief value. Thanks i have done the stabilizer great thread. thanks

  • Hello Im rebuilding a boom cylinder on a John Deere 310e and was wounding if anyone knows the torque specs for the large bolt at the end of the piston rod

  • Please send me some information on how to repair the piston seals in my John Deere 3130. It can't list at all. But when l use a manual Jack to lift the 3pt. With it's plow then it can hold the plow up very had. Could this be the seal problem? Thanks

  • I'm trying to rebuild my piston on my 1999 home made seven car carrier. I cannot locate the piston #

  • The green seal in the above picture (wiper seal) is installed upside down.

  • Hey Randy, is your cylinder classes as a 1 or 2 piece? Thanks

  • Thanks Randy, I've looked at numerous kits but nothing quite looks right, mine has the same press in wiper as yours- looks identical. Local tractor parts guy wants me to pull it apart then he'll measure and order in, and that could take a week or more. I'd prefer to order on line as here in Oz they charge about $200 for a one cylinder seal kit. Unfortunately I don't have that kind of money to burn.

  • Hi, do you have the part number for the seal kit - I have exact same 580c but have been unable to track down the kit part number.

    Thanks

  • Randy doest this method of removal work on the tilt cylinder?

  • Randy,

    The gland lock screw sheared off of the gland. The head came clean off, leaving the body down inside. Per the manual, they are 1/4' long. Looking like I am going to have to drill the body out. Ever had to do that before? Advice? Thanks in advance.

  • The threads on a JD 500C backhoe dipper cylinder gland that screws into the barrel are loose and the gland popped out. I guess removing the cylinder and finding a shop to build up and fix mating threads is one option. But are there any external bolt on or weld on kits or other ideas to help the aging threads hold the gland in the barrel? Thanks

  • I,m rebuilding the lift cylinders on a 1982 I.H. fork lift. they are 8 ft. long. I pulled the rod out of the cylinder but there is no gland on the bottom of the rod. there is a wear sleeve about 8 ins. up on the rod. Is there a gland in the bottom of the cylinder?

  • I have a case 580CT there is a pin in the end cap on the lift cyl how do I remove it to rebuild cyl

  • Hello Randy, On an old case 480c dipper cylinder is it really a good idea to use thread sealant? Old shop manual does not mention it. Thanks

  • I'm a 74 year old fogey feeling my way through rebuilding the hydraulic cylinder on our Case 530 backhoe. These things have fallen on me since my husband had his stroke. I'm fairly inventive, and I am actually enjoying being a pretend mechanic. One video I watched on rebuilding hydraulic cylinders showed the new packing heavily smeared with a black grease before reassembly. Hmmmm? I'm not a tractor mechanic, but I'm too sure about that. Another recommends white lithium grease. Could you please comment as to what type of oil you recommend for lubrication and exactly where to use it. Thanks!

  • after looking and watching a lot of articles on cylinder repair, i think this is the best for my application with the tools i have. don't discount other articles, as they explain different glan or end removal . check condition of rod and cylinder. several sites gave me useful information which i will use and i suggest you check a lot of them until you are confident you can repair your type of cylinder. after all this, if you are not sure take it to someone who repairs cylinders. i now have repair kits ordered and will proceed with cleaning and loosening gland ends while waiting. good luck to all.

  • John, sorry to be so long in responding to you but I'm vacation in the mountains. Did you extend the piston rod to its full length before loosening the gland, or is the rod extended to the bottom of the cylinder?

    This makes a big difference as an extended piston rod will often bind the piston in the cylinder and makes it very difficult to remove in some cases. You may try a come-along--a ratcheting cable--to help remove the piston and rod, just be sure the rod is pulling evenly and not at an angle.

    Hope this helps but if not, I'll be checking in at least once a day on all of my repair articles till I get back home.

    Randy

  • The gland has to come out before the piston right?

    I can't get any of it out. I think it is a cylinder off a wagner loader.

  • Got gland nut loose but all it does is spin. How does it come out?

  • Hello Randy, have ever had to use a ring compressor to re-install seals/O-rings to avoid damage? Having some issues with a boom cyl. on a bobcat.

  • This article just helped me a lit rebuilding a cylinder on a piece of heavy aircraft equipment, thank you for sharing your knowledge

  • I'm working on a John Deere backhoe c10d lift cylinder and it my first job to rebuild it and i ran into a problem the seal gland just seems to spin but does not come off and now i spent three hours trying to get it off if any ideas much help would be great thanks

  • Randy, thanks for the advice on the swing cylinder on my CASE 480E. I removed the cylinder to the backhoe boom pin by removing a six inch bolt from the bottom of the pin. A local heavy equipment shop used a 1” impact wrench and removed the piston retaining bolt, no heat necessary just one big impact wrench. I repacked the gland seals but ran into a problem with the piston, the middle piston seal. After getting the piston seal over the lip of the piston and into the middle of the piston, I noticed the seal stretched and is sagging around the piston instead of being snug. No problems with the piston’s backup ring. The seal is yellow and seems to be made from a plastic material. Other smaller cylinders I repacked had a fel-pro like gasket material for the piston seal with a innerlock which allowed it to expanded and slip over the lip of the piston than compressed back. . Do you think the piston seal will shrink to the normal size when installed?

  • Randy, thanks for the advice on the fluid. Any suggestions on repacking the swing hydraulic cylinders? I don't know how to remove the pin that connects the rod assembly end to the boom. Also in the CASE illustrated parts book there is a spring and pin located behind the bolt that holds the piston to the rod assembly. Should I be careful not to over tighten the nut thus damaging the spring/pin when I reinstall the piston to the rod assembly?

  • Randy, another question for my 480E. Have you ever purged the hydraulic fluid system? I notice the hydraulic fluid looks like coffee with creamer in it. I found glumps of frozen water inside the tractor’s cylinders when I pulled them apart. I thought perhaps I can bleed the contaminated fluid as if I was bleeding air out of an automobile hydraulic brake system, i.e. just crack the hydraulic fitting at the cylinder and let the fluid pour out until it gets clear, of course refilling the reservoir with new fluid. What do you think?

  • Randy, very useful information. Tractor: CASE 480E, backhoe, rear stabilizer. Question, what is the torque value for the bolt that holds the piston to the cylinder's rod assembly. The bolt is grade 8, 1' in diameter and has 1' 1/2' bolt head. According to a bolt chart, the bolt is rated for 1,000 foot pounds, seems excessive. I don't know what torque value the rod assembly thread's are rated for. I would hate to pull the threads out of the rod. The rod assembly diameter is 1' 3/4', cylinder part number is G102294.

  • Hi Randy, it is the black one in the middle of the piston and will not stretch. Both the new and the old are the same. I have not removed the old one because I will just put it back togather with it not replaced if I have too. The other 2 are split rings. It reminds me of a wear ring- not a seal, but usually a wear ring is split. It looks like the one in your picture. So I will try again tomorrow.

  • You don't show how to replace the piston seals. They don't seem to stretch any and I don't want to break the new seal. It doesn't look like the piston separates so you can install them without stretching them. Can you give any help?

  • good randy

    when we want to diassemble the nut of piston for a big cylinder is very difficult to turn it.we need to maximum torque ,but we haven't any systemss,

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    can you help me to found a system for seel

    we have money to buy it

  • good night

    i want to ask you about a big cylinder of big truck

    we have more problems while we want to diassemle or remote nut

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    what about this plaese

  • While the bolt head was red hot I used a 3/4 inch impact wrench with 185 psi - no joy. I've been wondering if I should have let the bolt cool down, after it broke loose, before trying to take it on out? It does act like the threads are crossed, but I can't imagine how it could have been put all the way in, and seated, with crossed threads. I plan to give the penetrating oil a good chance to work. I'll be sure to let you know how it turns out. Do you think the threads could have crossed when it broke loose?

  • I think the plan for now is to try to get some penetrating oil into the threads. I'm sure I will eventually get this cylinder rebuilt and working again. I'll keep you posted on my attempts and let you know how it turns out. Do you know if it is possible for the thread locker to re-set after applying heat to get it to turn loose? I'm not comfortable having to keep applying so much heat. Also, I'm running out of tools.. :)

  • Thanks for your fast response Randy. Sorry I didn't get back to you sooner - worked on the cylinder all day. It turned out that the problem was that I got too aggressive with the 'extreme force' -- you were right, it was just a little out of line and when it got to the ring groove, all of that pressure I put on it caused a very small ridge to form. There was no pulling it out past that ridge so I very carefully ground it down with a dremel, then it came out easily. Now there is a new (to me) problem: had to heat the bolt to get it to break loose. The trouble is, now that it is started, it won't come on out. I've broken all of my tools trying to get it to back out of there. I've twisted the ends off of two 3/4 inch Snap-On break-over bars. It seems that the farther the bolt comes out, the tighter it gets! I also broke an eight inch bench vice right in half - cheater pipes bring a LOT of force to the job. Have you ever had this problem before? Any ideas? By the way Randy, thank you for maintaining this hub for all of us amateurs out here.

  • Photos for mac and ios the missing manual. Hi Randy, I'v read your entire hub looking for help with my problem. I'm replacing the seals in the top crowd cylinder on a John Deere backhoe. I've removed the lock-nut and the retaining ring. The rod can easily be pulled out until the piston reaches the retaining ring groove in the cylinder and that is as far as I can get it to move. I've tried extreme force - a 6000 lb. wench. I chained the cylinder to my SUV, then chained the rod to my 4-wheeler --- drug the SUV right out of the shop. Tried whacking it with a hammer while applying pressure. Tried wiggling it up and down and side to side while pulling. No luck. I'm out of ideas. Can you help?

  • 1982 military , left cylinder aftr it was unbolted there was 3 part lock ring surrounds the shaft how we can remove it and reinstall thank you so much

  • Look for spot welds that someone put on there when they were too lazy to fix it right. You might grind them off if you find them. Found one on one of my stabilizer cyls. Dirty trick. Dobbs.

  • that was a nice thing you done for folks, saved lots of money for people, kinda surprised some still like me love to get dirty oily. have you ever run into left handed threads on end of piston. run in to one after a dozen or so can't get off starting to wonder. THANKS.

  • Hi Randy

    I just wanted to know if you have any more postings on repairs you have done on your case 580 b?

    I need to rebuild the motor on it G188 motor

    Or on the valves that control the hoe (hopefully the o rings in there)

    Thank you,Joe in Pa

  • i have a steering cylinder on a foton 404 can not get seal in cylinder rarrel

  • does anybody know how to fix a stabilizer arm on a 310 backhoe i have a backhoe that when it sits not running the arm settles to the ground

  • Hi Randy. Bobby mac deluxe carseat owners manual. I'm in the process of replacing several seals on a 580C Case backhoe. Right now Im trying to get the replacement Rod seal into the gland, of the loader tilt ram, it just seems impossible, the new seal is the same size as the one removed, but I cannot figure a way to refit the new one without damaging the seal! (Its an aftermarket seal kit by Bulldog) any ideas?? Thanks Alan

  • Figured out how to insert the rod bearing. Use a hose clamp and lap the bearing over and squeeze until small enough to insert.

  • I have a John deere 740 loader. The main ram has a gland with a 'rod bearing'. It is very hard stuff. I got the old one out by breaking it. How do I put the new one in?

  • hi randy im not sure what way the taper goes on the poly seal inside the gland . its on a 580b thank you

  • Correct, I cant get the gland down the piston rod, what is the best way without damaging anything

  • Randy, Good news we finally managed to get that dipper piston out. We put all the hydraulic hoses back in and left the gland unscrewed. We used the backhoe itself to drive the dipper out by replacing the hydraulic oil and started her up again and pull on the dipper lever until the piston shot out like a cannon literally. LOL!!! All is well though. Thank you again for your advice.

  • Randy, I have unscrewed the gland from the cylinder along with disconnecting both hoses from the dipper on my Case 580B. We can't seem to budge the piston out of the cylinder. There seems to still be hydraulic pressure holing it in place. We have even put a chain around it and pulled with another tractor and it did not even budge. I have called a couple of places and the all seem to be at a lost as well. We are kinda stuck here.

  • I have a John Deere Model 51 Backhoe attachment on a JD 1010 Tractor.

    How do I get rod and piston out of the Boom cylinder? There is a retaining nut which I have removed, but I can't see how to get the rest apart. There must be another form of Gland retainer that I am not familiar with.. Any help is greatly appreciated

  • I wanted to thankyou for answering my post so quickly. Turns out, that heat was needed and a bigger wrench. The gland is free. Thanks again for having this site!

  • We did two cylinders and had no problems opening the gland. The 3rd one will not come loose. We broke the gland wrench twice and had to fix that. Looks like someone put a couple of spot welds on the gland to cylinder many years ago. That is a dirty trick. We keep trying because the leak is getting worse.

  • I am having a problem unscrewing the gland on a 1978 Case 450 blade angle cylinder. I want to make sure it is a right hand thread. Please advise and thanks,